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ZANZIBAR
 An
afternoon strolling through the narrow streets and winding alleys of
historic Stone Town, the capital of Zanzibar, is not to be missed.
You’ll get lost – everybody does – but don’t worry, you’ll emerge
from the cool, shady lanes into the blinding sunlight of the
seafront eventually.
Until then, you’ll find something of interest around every corner –
an Arab archway leading into a white-walled square, with the sound
of prayer coming from behind the walls of a mosque. Or perhaps
you’ll stumble upon the Darajani market, with symmetrical piles of
oranges, baskets of spices and enormous chunks of fresh fish
arranged under palm-thatch shelters. Ladies will glide past,
shrouded in black Islamic headdresses. Old, long-bearded men in
white skull caps will look up from their games of Bao or dominoes to
greet you gravely as you pass, and small children will take your
hand and invite you to join their games in the overgrown remains of
Indian townhouses. Remember to keep looking up, below a blue strip
of sky, ornate shutters are thrown open and neighbors lean across
the narrow gap between their homes to swap gossip and jokes, hang
out washing, or just watch the world go by three stories below.
Look out for Arabic coffee sellers, strolling along the streets with
their charcoal braziers and bronze pots hanging from a yoke across
their shoulders. Or porters manoeuvring wheelbarrows almost as wide
as the alleyways they’re passing through, shouting ‘hodi, hodi’ (let
me pass). As evening falls, the seafront comes alive with stalls
selling fried seafood and chicken on skewers, hurricane lamps
illuminating piles of squid and octopus and mounds of chips. Sugar
cane is pressed through an antique mangle and funnelled into glasses
- cool, sweet and instantly refreshing. Small boys strip naked and
leap off the sea wall into the oily sea, turning pink as the last
rays of the sun fade and the muezzin begins his wailing call to
evening prayer.
As well as the magic of the streets, Stone Town has a number of
historical buildings that are worth a look. The Palace Museum and
the Old Fort on the seafront both house collections of furniture and
clothing from the days of the sultans, and the Palace Museum has a
room dedicated to Princess Salme, daughter of Sultan Said, who
eloped with a German businessman in the 19th century. The Anglican
cathedral, built on the site of the old slave market, has a crucifix
made from the tree under which the explorer David Livingstone’s
heart was buried. Nearby are the underground chambers in which
slaves were kept, forced to crouch on stone shelves less than two
feet high.
MAFIA ISLAND
 Mafia
Island - the Mafia Archipelago and Where to Stay
Mafia Island and its surrounding archipelago has a great deal to
offer as an unspoiled, little-visited alternative to other Indian
Ocean locations around Zanzibar and along the coast.
Mafia provides excellent opportunities for diving and snorkeling,
and for discovering deserted beaches and offshore islands with rich
natural and historic interest.
Mafia
Marine Highlights
The deeper channels around the islands are renowned for world-class
deep sea fishing, and home to at least two greatly endangered
species; the docile dugong (manatee or sea cow), is still thought to
cruise between Mafia and the Rufiji River Delta, and the small
islands around the archipelago remain a popular breeding ground for
giant and green turtles.
These islands are an idyllic natural haven for birds and wildlife,
with over 120 different species of birds sighted and recorded,
(including five types of sunbird), and the whole area is best
explored from the comfort of the deck of a traditional sailing dhow.
Mafia - Historic Indian Ocean Islands
Mafia is an archipelago of islands at the mouth of the Rufiji River
Delta, composed of Mafia Island, Jibondo, Juani and Chole. Their
position as the most southerly islands on the Tanzanian coast has
made them strategically covetable throughout the long game of
historical wrangling for rule, but visitors today find essentially
small, rural farming and fishing communities whose lives continue in
much the same pattern as has been traditional for millennia.
Mafia Island Lodges
We have included all the lodges below ordered by our ranking, and by
price. Clicking on any of the links will bring up more information;
our detailed view of the lodge, video, photos, key facts etc.
However, since we have been to all these lodges ourselves, we would
recommend a phone call or an email to help you to decide where to
go.
BAGAMOYO
 Bagamoyo
is a wonderful place with a rich heritage and present day artist
community rivalling that of any town in East Africa. The whole town
has a population of about 30,000, a small proportion of which live
within the remaining stone town area, which runs along the beach
front looking out east into the Indian Ocean.
The main attraction to the town today is the College of Arts, where
students come from all over East Africa (and internationally) to
advance their skills and knowledge in a variety of artistic mediums.
As well as the College, there is a well-known sculpture school and
several art-school establishments run by prominent Tanzanian
artists, the Baobab Studio being one.
Tourism exists as a staple of the Bagamoyo economy. The artistic
community acts a a pull to tourist and the tourists provide income
to the artistic community. This reciprocal relation is crucial to
the success of Bagamoyo and its thriving arts culture, as defined by
the creative people at the heart of the town.
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