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Swirls of opaque mist
hide the advancing dawn. The first shafts of sun color the fluffy
grass heads rippling across the plain in a russet halo. A herd of
zebras, confident in their camouflage at this predatory hour, pose
like ballerinas, heads aligned and stripes merging in flowing
motion.
Mikumi National Park abuts the northern border of Africa's
biggest game reserve - the Selous – and is transected by the
surfaced road between Dar es Salaam and Iringa. It is thus the most
accessible part of a 75,000 square kilometre (47,000 square mile)
tract of wilderness that stretches east almost as far as the Indian
Ocean.
The open horizons and abundant wildlife of the Mkata
Floodplain, the popular centrepiece of Mikumi, draw frequent
comparisons to the more famous Serengeti Plains.
Lions survey their grassy kingdom – and the zebra,
wildebeest, impala and buffalo herds that migrate across it – from
the flattened tops of termite mounds, or sometimes, during the
rains, from perches high in the trees. Giraffes forage in the
isolated acacia stands that fringe the Mkata River, islets of shade
favored also by Mikumi's elephants.
Criss-crossed by a good circuit of game-viewing roads, the
Mkata Floodplain is perhaps the most reliable place in Tanzania for
sightings of the powerful eland, the world’s largest antelope. The
equally impressive greater kudu and sable antelope haunt the miombo-covered
foothills of the mountains that rise from the park’s borders.
More than 400 bird species have been recorded, with such
colorful common residents as the lilac-breasted roller,
yellow-throated long claw and bateleur eagle joined by a host of
European migrants during the rainy season. Hippos are the star
attraction of the pair of pools situated 5km north of the main
entrance gate, supported by an ever-changing cast of water birds
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